A) Before You Begin
Tips:
- Install floor last when doing renovations.
- Heat your home for at least one week before installation.
- Keep subfloor dry and make sure basement is well ventilated.
- Acclimatize the wood for at least 24 hours before installing.
- Maintain relative humidity between 40% and 50%.
Prepare your tools and accessories
Check subfloor moisture level
Using a wood moisture meter, ensure that the moisture reading for the subfloor does not exceed 12% and that the difference between the reading for the boards and subfloor is no more than 4%. If the moisture reading is too high, find the moisture source and correct it.
Check that subfloor is appropriate
The subfloor must be plywood [minimum 5/8" [16 mm] thick] or approved OSB [3/4" [19 mm]] if installed over 16" [400 mm] center-to-center joist substructure. Screw subfloor firmly onto joists to prevent floor movement and squeaks. Replace any existing floor or subfloor that has suffered water damage or shows structural weaknesses.
The surface must be flat. The maximum tolerance is 3/16" [5 mm] variation over 10 ft. [3 m]. If necessary, sand any bumps using #20 grit paper or fill any holes with leveling compound.
The subfloor must be vacuumed clean and be smooth and free of any debris, staples, visible nails, old adhesives, or other dried substances.
B) Preparation
Sketch out the installation
Determine starting point or wall and the direction in which boards will be installed. Boards should be installed perpendicular or at 45° to joists.
Lay felt paper [or equivalent] over the entire floor surface.
Open a few boxes and lay out boards in the same position they will be installed
To create a more pleasing appearance, lay boards across the entire room as they will be installed to ensure a good mix of colors and nuances. Remove or reposition any boards you find less attractive. Select boards that go best with the transition moldings you will be installing.
Draw a line marking the first row
Using a chalk line, mark a guideline parallel to the starting wall, taking into account the width of the boards plus an additional 3/4" [19 mm] for the expansion gap and tongue. Select the longest and straightest boards for the first row.
C) Laying Boards
Place, drill, and nail the first row
Align the first board with tongue side along starting line and grooved side facing the starting wall; leave a 1/4" [6 mm] gap from the right side wall [perpendicular to starting line]. Drill and nail boards from above, as close to the wall as possible. Install subsequent boards from right to left until ready to trim row end boards.
Use trimmed boards to start next row
To minimize trim waste, select row end boards that are long enough for their trimmed ends to be used to start subsequent rows. Leave a 1/4" [6 mm] gap between the wall and the end of each row. The first board of the second row must be at least 6" [150 mm] shorter or longer than the one used in the first row, to avoid lining up the joints.
Since wall proximity prohibits the use of a stapler, use a hammer and nail punch to drive finishing nails approximately every 4" [100 mm] along the tongue for the first few rows.
Use floor stapler as soon as possible
Subsequent rows should be installed the same way, using the stapler.
The last 4 or 5 rows should be installed the same way as the first rows due to the proximity of the wall. You may have to trim the boards closest to the wall to leave the 1/2" [12 mm] required for the expansion gap.
Enjoy your Mirage floor for many years to come!
For additional information on installing Mirage Classic floors, consult the
Installation Guide.
